One of the most amazing sights in Ethiopia – and probably sub Saharan Africa – is the collection of rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, a small cliff town in the north. While the structures are not the oldest in this ancient country, they are surely the grandest. So the answer, at least initially, to the question I received so often, "Why Ethiopia?" is simple: Lalibela.

The eleven rock churches here are massive monolithic edifices that vary in style and design. They are remarkable in many ways but perhaps most impressive is that they were constructed from the top down. As the medieval laborers chiseled from street level down into the reddish lava rock, they formed windows, reliefs and magnificent columns. Because of this unique method of construction, the structures stand in huge pits deep in the earth. If you look carefully, you can find mounds of discarded stones near the excavations. While the eleven structures stand independent of each other, they are connected by a series of underground tunnels. The total absence of light in these passageways makes their exploration quite an adventure.

Construction of the churches is attributed to King Lalibela, who came to power in the early 1180s and ruled from the capital at that time, Roha, later renamed in his honor. The town teeters on top of a flat plateau and offers spectacular views of the surrounding area. As with almost everything in Ethiopia, we heard several legends associated with this lovey little town. While some say angels constructed the churches, our guide subscribed to the theory that King Lalibela returned from a visit to the holy land determined to build a new Jerusalem. The monolithic churches are the result of his ambitious vision. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, Lalibela remains a holy city and continues to attract pilgrims from throughout the region.